Monday, September 17, 2018

CARAVANS 5- NORTHERN FRANCE

DAY #1 - PARIS - the City of Lights!           
                       Thursday, Oct. 17th                 

             

     Arrive in Paris, leave bags at Hotel and be ready to 
                  tour by 10 am?

           *Place de la Concorde:

       The city's largest public square has a lengthy history as well.  During the French Revolution in 1789, the statue of Louis XV of France was torn down
and the area renamed the Place de la Revolution.  The new revolutionary government erected a guillotine in the square and it was here that King Louis XVI was executed on 21 January 1793,. Other important figures guillotined on the site, often in front of cheering crowds, were Marie Antoinette, Madame du Barry, Robespierre a leader in the revolution!  In 1795 under the Directory, the square was renamed Place de la Concorde as a gesture of reconciliation.
     The center of the Place is occupied by a giant Egyptian obelisk decorated with hieroglyphics exalting the reign of the pharaoh Ramesses II.  It is one of two the Egyptian government gave to the French in the 19th century. The other one stayed in Egypt, too difficult and heavy to move to France with the technology at that time.  In the 1990's President Mitterrand gave the 2nd obelisk back to the Egyptians.  The 3300-year-old obelisk once marked the entrance to the Luxor Temple. in Egypt.


     *Stroll up the Champs Elysees to the Arch de Triumphe:



      The most famous street in Paris, this wide, tree-lined avenue is home to the city's chic restaurants, shops and boutiques and is one of the 12 grand avenues that radiate from the Arc de Triomphe.  A stroll of about a mile from the Place de la Concorde, takes you to the top of the avenue crowned with the Arc itself.  One of the world's best-known commemorative monuments, it stands at the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle. Napolean I commissioned the triumphal arch in 1806, after his great victory at the Battle of Austerlitz, to celebrate the military achievements of the French armies.  The arch, designed by Jean Chalgrin, is 164 feet high and 148 feet wide.  It sits in a circular plaza from which the 12 avenues radiate, forming a star.
     Construction of the arch began in 1806 on Napoleon's birthday.  Little more than the foundation had been completed by the time of his marriage to Marie-Louise in 1810 so in honor of her ceremonial entry into Paris, a full-scale depiction of the completed design, created from wood and painted canvas, was erected at the site. The actual structure was not completed until after Napoleon's abdication when work was finally resumed by King Louis XVIII and finished in 18 36.
        The bodies of French famous sons including that of Victor Hugo, laid in state under the arch and leaders of conquering armies, notably Hitler, drove through the arch in a victory celebration as a Nazi flag flew from the top during the occupation of WWII.


     *Tracadero Square:


     This is why you came to Paris, isn't it - to see the Eiffel Tower and this is the best spot from which to take a picture of the Tower - you may very well recognize the perspective from various movies you've seen.   The Trocadéro, site of the Palais de Chaillot, sits across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower. It is also the name of the 1878 palace which was demolished in 1937 to make way for the Palais de Chaillo.[1] The hill of the Trocadéro is the hill of Chaillot, a former village.  The large plaza at Place de Trocadéro is a popular tourist destination to take pictures of the Eiffel Tower.


     *Musee d'Orsay:

         
              This beautiful museum, once a railroad station, now houses a 
        staggering collection of  impressionist art including Van Gogh's 
        "Starry Night", some Rodin sculptures and works by Degas, 
        Manet, Monet, Renoir, Seurat among many others.  
              Built in only two years for the 1900 Universelle Expo, it was 
        only a  train station until 1939.  During WWII it was the postal 
        depot for POWs. The western facade, where the museum's 
        current entrance is, was a hotel for a long time.  During each of
        these incarnations, the building was frequently at risk of being 
        destroyed with many a valiant preservationist fighting 
        developers tooth and nail.  Finally in 1986 Mitterand bought it 
        in order to showcase the art, chronologically, where the Louvre 
        lets off in the middle-19th century.  In order to hold to our credo 
        -  an hour in a museum is long enough to see the top sites 
        without sacrificing your legs and your energy for the rest of the 
        day - we  will focus on the top sites!

*Eiffel Tower & Boat Cruise on the Seine River:



             The Eiffel Tower is a wrought iron lattice tower on the Champ de     
        & built it. Constructed from 887-89 as the entrance to the 1889 
        World's Fair. It was initially criticized by some of France's leading 
        artists and  intellectuals for its design, but it has become a global 
        cultural icon of France and one of the most recognizable structures
         in the world and is the most-visited paid monument:  7 million 
         people ascended it in 2015.  (Thus the terribly long lines to get in!)             
             The tower is 1,063 ft. tall, about the same height as an 81-storey 
        building and the tallest structure in Paris. During its construction, it
        surpassed the Washington Monument to become the tallest man-
        made structure in the world, a title it held for 41 years until the 
        Chrysler Building was finished in 1930.  The addition of a broad-
        casting aerial at the top  in 1957, now makes it taller than the 
        Chrysler building.
      
       (For those that don't want to wait in line to go up in the Eiffel 
       Tower - or "been there, done that" - we will go on the Seine River 
       Cruise.  So you have a choice to make!  Once you see the lines for 
       the tower, your choice may be made.)  

     *Seine River Cruise:

           An hour-long cruise on the Seine River is a unique way to discover the city.  As you pass under the famous bridges of Paris, to a narrated tour, you are able to glimpse the landmark monuments and building of the city from a unique perspective.  The view of Notre Dame, which sits on an island in the middle of the river, Isle de France, will be different than in years past, due to the fire, but it has always offered a spectacular view from the river.

   *Dinner together on the Champs Elysees or near 
            Notre Dame

Overnight in Paris: Atlantic Hotel
         https://atlantic-hotel-paris.com/en/


DAY #2 - MORE PARIS - The City that 
      Never  Sleeps   (but we hope you do!)

     *Fontainebleau Palace:
     
               The Palace of Fontainebleau is one of the largest French royal 
         chateaux.  The medieval castle and subsequent palace served as a 
         residence for the French monarchs from Louis VII to Napolean III.  
         Francis I and Napolean were the monarchs who had the most
         influence on the palace as it stands today.
               The earliest record of a fortified castle at this spot dates to 1138 
         and became a favorite residence and hunting lodge of the kings of 
         France  because of the abundant game and many springs in the 
         surrounding forest. The palace took its name from one of the 
         springs, the Fountain de Bilaud.
               Notable residents include Louis the 16th and Marie Antoinette 
         who made their last stay there in 1786 on the eve of the French 
         Revolution and  Napoleon who made extensive renovations, to 
         accommodate his large ego (my opinion) renovating one room to 
         be his throne room.
               In my opinion, Fontainebleau is as grand as Versailles, on a 
        slightly  smaller scale, has a more interesting history, is not as 
        crowded and provides a much more pleasant visit than does 
        Versailles. If I had to choose only one to visit it would be 
        Fontainebleau, though the gardens are not as vast as those at 
        Versailles.

                                               Napolean's Throne Room:
                               


     *Pere - Lachaise:


              (From Trip-Savy) "One doesn't usually associate a cemetery 
        with  a romantic stroll but a visit to Père-Lachaise begs exactly 
        that. Tucked away in a corner of northeastern Paris known to 
        locals as Menilmontant, the cemetery is affectionately called l
        la cite des morts - the city of the dead  - by Parisians.
              With its rolling, gentle hills, thousands of trees in dozens of 
        varieties, winding paths with carefully plotted, elaborately 
        named avenues, and elaborate sepulchers and tombs, it's easy
        to see why Père-Lachaise is considered Paris' most hauntingly 
        beautiful place of rest. If that weren't  a convincing enough 
        reason to go for a stroll there, great figures have  their resting 
        place here, including Chopin, Proust, Colette, and Jim 
        Morrison. No wonder, then, that a cemetery makes our list of
        the top 10 Paris sights and attractions."

     *Notre Dame Cathedral:

              For those of us who have spent hours in Notre Dame sitting in the pews listening to choir music, & concerts, standing over the heating vents during cold winter visits,  looking at the iconic rose window, examining the flying buttresses to understand how these made the height of the Gothic cathedral style possible, sitting out in the courtyard on pleasant Paris evenings, playing with the pigeons, we were devastated to watch as the very heart of Paris suffered the devastating blow of the fire on April 15th of this past year.  Gone is much of the original handiwork of the Gothic builders but we are relieved that is was not a total destruction, that the two front towers survived and that enough money and interest was generated to ensure that the cathedral will rise again from the ashes.  Few historic church masterpieces throughout the centuries have not suffered fires - it seems to be a given that at some point a church of that age has burned - but we had mistakenly thought that the technologies of our day would have made that possibility obsolete.    
                We are sorry that you won't be able to see it as it was but if you've seen it before, rely on your memories and take interest in the efforts that are being made to have it restored in 5 years time. Due to the fire, visiting hours of course have been impacted and whether tourists are allowed in at all, we don't know.  Still doing some research on that.  At least you will get a good view from the Seine boat cruise and as we walk around the Isle de France where it is situated.
              Arguably the most stunning gothic cathedral in the world, Paris' Notre Dame Cathedral is undoubtedly the most famous.  Conceived in the 12th century and comleted in the 14th, the now-iconic cathedral was the very heartbeat of medieval Paris.  After a period of neglct, it recaptured the popular imagineation when Victor Hugo immortalized it in "The Hunchbakc of Notre Dame".             
                 Notre Dame Interior - Before & After               

     *Sainte Chapelle:


               This is our very favorite - floor to ceiling stained glass 

          windows of incredible, detailed beauty - especially on a sunny day!
          Sainte Chapelle, located just around the corner from Notre Dame 
          on the Isle de Cite was built in seven years and completed in 1248, 
          as part of the Palace complex of French kings until the 14th century.  
          It's original function was to house precious Christian relics,
          including Christ's crown of thorns, acquired by Saint Louis. 
          Having these sacred relics in his possession made the already
          powerful monarch head of western Christianity.
                   Stunning stained glass is featured in this church which is 
          considered among the highest achievements of the Rayonnant
          period of Gothic architecture. The glass is arranged across 15 
          windows, each 15 meters high, the stained glass panels depict 
          1,113 scenes from the Old and New Testaments recounting the
          history of the world until the arrival of the relics in Paris.

     *Louvre Museum:


                 You've been waiting for this one, right!  Thanks to the late 
          hours on Friday, you will have plenty of time to explore some of 
          the most famous pieces of art in the world housed inside the 
          Louvre Museum.  We'll lead you around to the highlights or 
          you can explore with a map at your leisure!
                  Originally a fortress built in the 1100's, the Louvre became a 
          palatial residence under Louis the 1st and remained so until Louis 
          the 14th moved the royal residence to Versailles.  It was to the 
          Tuileries Palace, adjacent to the Louvre, that Louis the 16th and 
          Marie Antoinette were sent after being arrested during the French
          revolution.  
                    In the intervening years, the museum was used for various 
          art academies and later under Napoleon was restored and 
          renovated to serve as a museum in his efforts to collect and display
          art pieces from around the world, captured in his military 
          campaigns, through private donations and commissions.  Aptly
          named, "Musee Napoleon", Napoleon is credited with creating the 
          foundation for the museum as it is today - the largest in the world -
          with a space of over 800,000 square feet and over 38,000 
          collection pieces.  If we see 10 of them we will be doing well!


Museum Highlights Include:
     
  Winged Victory                        Mona Lisa       

 
      Venus de Milo     

 
 Michaelangelo's Slave 

Overnight in Paris



DAY  #3 - Alsace Region, Saturday, Oct. 19th

    Depart Paris via Train (TGV) - early

    Arrive in Strasbourg:  Visit City Highlights


         *Notre Dame Cathedral:

Image result for notre dame cathedral strasbourg 

*Strasbourg Cathedral (Notre Dame):…also known as Strasbourg Minster, is a Roman Catholic cathedral.  Although considerable parts of it are still in earlier Romanesque architecture, it is widely considered to be among the finest examples of high, or late, Gothic architecture.  Erwin von Steinbach is credited for major contributions from 1277 to his death in 1318.
            At 466 feet, it was the world’s tallest building from 1647 to 1874 (227 years) when it was surpassed by St. Nikolai’s Church in Hamburg.  Today it is the 6th tallest church in the world and the highest extant structure built entirely in the Middle Ages.
            Described by Victor Hugo as a “gigantic and delicate marvel” and by Goethe as a “sublimely towering, wide-spreading tree of God”, the cathedral is visible far across the plains of Alsace and can be seen from as far off as the Vosges Mountains of the Black Forest on theother side of the Rhine, Sandstone from the Vosges used in construction gives the cathedral its characteristic pink hue.

*Stroll through Little France Quarter:
Image result for petite france strasbourg


La Petite France:
   …is an historic quarter of the city of Strasbourg.  It is located at the western end of the Grande Ile (river), which contains the historical center of the city.  At Petite France, the River Ill splits up into a number of channels that cascade through an area that, was in the Middle Ages, home to the city’s tanners, millers and fishermen and is now one of Strasbourg’s main tourist attractions.
            Just up-stream of Petite France, the river flows through the Barrage Vauban, a defensive structure built at the end of the 17h century.  Downstream of this, the river splits into the Canal du Faux-Rempart, which flows to the north of the Grand Ile, and forms channels which flow through the Petite France quarter before reuniting in the main channel of the river, flowing to the south of the Grande Ile.


            Downstream of the Ponts Couverts, the four channels flow through an area of largely half-timbered buildings which, together with the narrow lanes and footbridges that connect them mostly date from the 16th and 17th centuries.  The sloping roofs of many of the buildings include open lofts where hides were once dried.  On the north bank of the Ill at the heart of the quarter is the Maison des Tanneurs, home of the Tanner’s Guild.
         
*Maison Du Fromage: (The Cheese House)
              The House of Cheese - In the village of Munster in Alsace will allow us to discover the manufacturing of and taste the local famous Munster cheese.


*Le Hohneck: (if daylight allows)
              Third highest summit of the Vosges Mountains, the Hohneck is an amazing mountain from where you can take a lot of different trails (like the Sentier des Roches, a must-do in the area). Great views for little effort if you park at the top! Even letting the car do most of the hard work, an easy walk around the summit area and down to a couple of the nearby cols give you views to the valleys in the east which are amazing.

Image result for munster france

     Dinner & Overnight in Colmar:

             Hotel Turenne:  http://www.turenne.com/en/


Image result for hotel turenne colmar


Day #4 - Sunday, Oct. 20th                                                     No Sass, Alsace!                     

       
         *Church at Branch at Colmar:


          *Visit Riquewihr:
             Will these darling villages never end!  This is one of our favorites, where we
         spent the perfect Christmas with family several years ago - including staying in one
         of these timbered buildings, walking out to the square on Christmas Eve to hear
         a choir singing Silent Night in French and German, eating Munster cheese with
         potatoes cooked in a large open kettle and munching on crepes and bretzels, 
         which are sure to be a favorite - a fat, soft pretzel with melted Munster cheese and
         bacon on top. The Katie Wohlfarht store is an enchanting shop where you can 
         buy wooden Christmas ornaments, smokers and nutcrackers (though you'll see
         another of these shops in Heidelberg.)

            Riquewihr, dating to 1291, looks today more or less as it did in the 16th century. 
         It is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France, or Les plus beaux 
         villages de France. It is one of the few towns in the area not to be badly damaged
         during WW II and is still surrounded by its medieval fortifications and is 
         overlooked by a castle from the same period which is today, a museum.
  Image result for riquewihr france           
               
    *Explore Colmar (and a late lunch)
          Dazzling colors, canals, the wonder of half-timbered buildings 
           that look like a perfect illustration—these are the things of 
           Colmar, France. Its streets twist and meander into tiny alleys
           and then open into small squares used by traders and merchants
           centuries ago. Its mostly pedestrian center is a festival of 
           brightly tiled roofs and even brighter facades, welcoming the 
           curious.

                    This corner of France, known as Alsace, has changed hands 
               several times with Germany over the centuries. As a result,
               Colmar and nearby small French towns have a distinctive 
               culture all their own influenced by those who have claimed the
               region.  From language to food to architecture, everything is a
               little French and a little German. Remarkably, Colmar’s historic 
               beauty was preserved during World War II, so its tiled roofs, 
               cobbled lanes, and centuries’ old buildings are around for us to
               marvel at today.

                     PETITE VENICE:
                 No matter how much time you have, Petite Venise 
           (Little Venice) is an absolute Colmar must see. This
           stretch of lovely half-timbered buildings along the canal is
           certainly the most picturesque view in Colmar. Walking
           along here, it’s hard not to feel like you’ve stepped into the
           middle of a fairytale or a scene from Disney. But there’s 
           nothing Disneyfied about it—the sherbet-colored rustic 
           homes and businesses along the water have been this way
           for 400years or more, although they’re probably a little 
           brighter now.
                  In the Middle Ages, the river Lauch was redirected to 
           the center of Colmar to supply water to the town for 
           drinking and business. The surrounding area—as the
           street names indicate- was home to the butchers, 
           tanners, and fishmongers, and the water helped power
           the businesses and move goods around.
           Even the market hall has steps going down to the water
           to receive items being transported.

Image result for colmar, france

            MUSEE  UNTERLINDEN:
               The museum, housed in a 13th century Dominican convent,
               is home to the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthis Grenwald and
               features a large collection oflocal and international artworks
               and artifacts from prehistori to contemporary times. The
               museum bears the quality label Musee de France and is one
               of the most visited outside of Paris.

Image result for Musee Unterlinden - altarpiece

                         
        Overnight at Colmar: Hotel Turenne




 DAY #5 - Across the Western Front:

          Monday, Oct. 21st          


   Drive to Heidelberg, Germany
       Heidelberg is often called one of the most romantic towns in
       Germany. It's colorful alleyways, vibrant university population
          and prime location on the river all contribute to its charm. 

 Image result for heidelberg castle    
     *Visit Heidelberg Castle:
                   Heidelberg Castle is built of red Neckar Sandstone on the 
             terraced hillside above the city.  This 16 century castle is one 
             of the best examples of German Renaissance architecture. 
             After its destruction by the French, who devastated the 
             Palatinate in the 17th century, it has remained the largest
             and most picturesque such ruin in Germany. 

                 On the grounds of the castle, the German Museum of 

            Pharmacy covers the history of apothecaries during the 18th
            and 19th centuries. Displays include fascinating old instru-
            ments and tools of the trade, as well as examples of the
            preparations used by these early pharmacists. Furnishings
            from pharmacies since the Baroque periods and medical
            books are also featured and even our grandchildren found
            it interesting! 

                If we feel like more walking and marvelous views we can 

            take the cable car (funicular railway) that we will ride to the 
            castle to the Konigstuhl (King's seat) which is a hill rising 
            1600 feet high with spectacular views as far as the Rhine
            Valley.  It's an excellent place to explore the beautiful
            countryside surrounding Heidelberg.  Some of us may just 
            sit back at a gasthaus and enjoy hot chocolate!


Image result for königstuhl heidelberg

       *Explore Heidelberg Altstadt (Old town) & Lunch

             The Hauptstrasse, or main street is the world’s longest continuous  
                Pedestrian shopping street where we can explore tons of shops and find a  
                Gasthaus (guesthouse) to eat genuine hearty German food.  If you hear
                them pounding out our schnitzel with a mallet, you know the meat is fresh.  
                Our recommendations:  yaegerschnitzel with spaetzle (hunter’s schnitzel 
                with mushrooms in a rich gravy and delicate noodles) cordon bleu – pork 
                schnitzel stuffed with ham and swiss, goulasch suppe – to recommend a 
                few and plenty of brats of various sizes and colors with sauerkraut for the 
                Brat lovers among you.)  Rich will be sure we remember dessert:  Apple
                Strudel!  
                      We’ll take a look at the Rathaus (city hall) – some of the town’s mayors
               must have been rats!  Ad the Marktplatz (market place) to see the
               Hercules Fountain where petty criminals were chained during medieval times.
             

Image result for hauptstrasse heidelberg


          WALK THE RIVER NECKAR & ALTE BRUCKE:
              Strolling along the river is a pleasant way to see some of the city's side
           streets and small alleyways which are very interesting to explore.  The old
           bridge is worth a walk to see the striped medieval gate and wonderful views
           of the castle.  
  
Image result for River Neckar and Alte Brucke
                    
        Overnight in Heidelberg:
       Hotel Zum Ritter, St. Georg:
        (What an amazing building - recommended to visit as a tourist
                for the architecture of this Renaissance building, built in 1592 and                                    recommended as a top place to stay by Rick Steves - and we 
                get to sleep here!)     http://www.hotel-ritter-heidelberg.com
Image result for zum ritter st georg heidelberg


DAY #6 - Is it France or is it Germany?

            Back to Alsace - Tuesday, Oct. 22nd


              *Musee Memorial Le Linge: (WWI trenches)
               Le Linge is a battlefield where a deadly confrontation 
                           took place between 20 July-October 1918, during WWI. 
                           Designated a historic site in 1921 it was one of the 
                           deadliest battlefields of the war.  During the conflict, the
                           Germans had organized their defenses along the crestline
                           of Le Linge ridge to keep the French troops from 
                           advancing toward Colmar.  The Chasseurs Alpins, many
                           between the ages of 19 and 20 launched an assault against
                           this impregnable bastion.  Gas shells and flamethrowers
                           were used.  Some 10,000 Frenchmen and 7,000 Germans 
                           died during this period before the troops reached
                           a standoff.
                                Visitors have called it an unexpected and very moving
                          experience with an informative museum as well as the
                          opportunity to walk through the trenches where the 
                          battles were fought.  

Image result for Musee Memorial de Linge
             *Chateau Du Haut-Koenigsbourg:
              …is a medieval castle near Colmar in Alsace, located in 
                          the Vosges mountains and situated in a strategic area on
                          a rocky spur overlooking the Upper Rhine Plains.  It is
                          not known when the first castle was built however it is 
                          documented in1147 when the monks complained to King 
                          Louis VII of France about its unlawful construction by
                          Duke Frederick II of Swabia.  Frederick’s younger 
                          brother Conrad III had been elected King of the 
                          Romans in 1138 and by 1192 the castle was called by its 
                          current name – “King’s Castle”.
                               It was used by successive powers from the Middle 
                          Ages until  the Thirty Years War when is was abandoned. 
                          From 1900 – 1908 it was rebuilt at the behest of the 
                          German Kaiser Wilhelm II.  Today it attracts more than
                          a half million visitors per year.

Image result for CHATEAU DU HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG


*Cooking Class & Dinner:
    We will learn to cook a French Bistro dinner with an
  instructor at a French cooking school.  Our menu will
 consist of Menu bistrot: Pavé de boeuf en croûte d'échalote,
 châtaignes et rösti de pommes de terre Clafoutis aux 
 mangues épicées or in other words: Beef steak in shallot
crust, chestnuts and rösti of potatoes Clafoutis with
spicy mangoes (clafoutis is a pastry similar to a custard
pie with fruit.) What fun cooking and then dining on
authentic French cuisine! (This is one of the included
dinners on the tour.)

Overnight in Obernai:  Le Colombier Hotel
https://www.hotel-colombier.com/fr/




DAY #7 - Wednesday, Oct 23rd,      
            Norman Haunts!      

    Early Departure from Strasbourg via rented vans to
          Rouen, Normandy.

   *Stop at Reims for lunch and a peak at the Cathedral





      Another Notre Dame?  Every big town has to have one!   What's your favorite and how to do you tell them apart?  Well, this one, the Reims Cathedral is a very old one, the first church on its site built in 401 on the site of a Gallo-Roman bath. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary as all Notre Dames are, it is famous for being the traditional location for the coronations of the kings of France.
     Construction of the current cathedral began in the 13th century and concluded in the 15th, built to replace an earlier church, destroyed by fire in 1221.
     During the 100 Years War, the cathedral and city were under siege by the English in 1359 but the siege failed and in 1380 the cathedral was the location of Charles VIs coronation and eight years later Charles called a council at Reims in 1388 to take personal rule from the control of his uncles.  After Henry the V of England defeated Charles' army at Agincourt, Reims along with most of northern France fell to the English.  The English held Reims until 1429 when it was liberated by Joan of Arc, which allowed the Dauphin Charles to be crowned king on 17 July 1429.  Following the death of Francis I of France, Henry II was crowned king of France in the cathedral in July of 1547.  
     Although Reims was an important symbol of the French monarchy, the chaos of the French Revolution did not damage it to the same extent as at Chartres where the structure of the cathedral itself was threatened.  Some statutes were broken,the gates were torn down and the royal Hand of Justice was burned.

Rouen:  

     *Rouen Sites:
      Rouen is known for its Rouen Cathedral, with its Tour de Beurre (butter tower) financed by the sale of indulgences for the consumption of butter during Lent. The cathedral's gothic façade (completed in the 16th century) was the subject of a series of paintings by Claude Monet, some of which are exhibited in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris.
      The Gros Horloge is an astronomical clock dating back to the 14th century.[1] It is located in the Gros Horloge street.
      Other famous structures include Rouen Castle, whose keep is known as the tour Jeanne d'Arc, where Joan of Arc was brought in 1431 to be threatened with torture (contrary to popular belief, she was not imprisoned there but in the since destroyed tour de lady Pucelle); the Church of Saint Ouen (12th–15th century); the Palais de Justice, which was once the seat of the Parlement (French court of law) of Normandy; the Gothic Church of St Maclou (15th century); and the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics which contains a splendid collection of faïence and porcelain for which Rouen was renowned during the 16th to 18th centuries. Rouen is also noted for its surviving half-timbered buildings.

Facade of the Rouen Cathedral
                        The Lace Cathedral

Overnight in Rouen
        Hotels Les Inites & Le Vieux Carre:
                      Les Inites:  https://les-inities-hotel-rouen.booked.net/


Day #8:   Thursday, Oct. 24th            
       "Can't "resist" Brittany"           
             (specifically, the food)


Early departure for Dinan, Brittany

     *Market Day in Dinan:    
         "In France, if you have time for only one stop
               in Brittany, make it the ancient riverfront city of
                Dinan. Dinan's hefty ramparts bundle its half-
               timbered and cobbled quaintness into Brittany's
               best medieval town center. While it has a
               touristic icing — plenty of crêperies, shops 
               peddling Brittany kitsch and colorful flags — it is
               also clearly a  work-a-day town filled with locals 
               who take pride in their Breton culture.  Music stores, 
               for instance, sell more Celtic music than anything
               else. 
                    Dinan isn't about museums, castles or other
              must-sees. Frankly, I wouldn't go through a turnstile
              here. The attraction is the town itself, delightfully 
              preserved because it escaped the bombs of World 
              War II. Enjoy the old town center, scramble the
              ramparts and relax at the riverfront harbor. The
              sprawling town square, Place du Guesclin, is named 
              after a 14th-century military leader famous for
              victories over England. For 700 years, merchants 
              have filled the square to sell their produce and 
              crafts — these days, vendors are out in force on 
              Thursday mornings."         (By Rick Steves)
                

           *Rocheforte-en-Terre:
            Built on a promontory,Rochefort-en-Terre occupies
              magnificent site.    Awarded "Most beautiful
              Village of France" for its half-timbered houses of wood,
              its buildings of Gothic Renaissance and its castle
              mansions. The stone is ubiquitous, it is the link between 
              these different testimonies of history despite the 
             diversity of the architectural currents that are expressed.



 Rennes: & Cathedral:
            Rennes is the capital of the region of Brittany, whose
               history goes back more than 2,000 years, at a time when
               it was a small Gallic village name Condate.  Together with 
               Vannes and Nantes, it is one of the major cities of the
               ancient Duchy of Brittany.
                     In 2015, the city was the 10th largest in Frances, with a
               metropolitan area of about 720,000 inhabitants.  With 
               more  than 66,000 students in 2016, it is also the 8th
               largest University campus of France.  In 2018, it was 
               named as “the most liveable city in France.”

Rennes
Image result for Rennes, France

Dinner & Overnight in Dinan
La Maison Pavie: https://www.lamaisonpavie.com/
          Hotel Alvor:https://www.hotelarvordinan.com/en/?  
                                             gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9Mn6oJrz3QIVApyz
                                                Ch2uzgEbEAAYASAAEgKS6fD_BwE   

           Hotel Alvor:
           "A hotel in the heart of the medieval city of Dinan, this hotel is
           an elegant residence dating back to the 18th century, in a 
           Renaissance-style building, where all the stops are pulled out 
           to ensure that your stay in Brittany is an unforgettable one.
           On the former site of a Jacobin convent, the hotel has an 
            enchanting authentic atmosphere."

           Could we find a more charming place to stay - we doubt it!
Image result for hotel arvor dinan france

      




DAY #9 - Friday, Oct. 25th, Bretagne:      
     Couldn't resist so just a bit more Brit!

       
      Drive About Brittany:

          
*St. Malo - Fishing Village of Brittany:
Image result for St. Malo, France

St. Malo:
      St. Malo is best known as having been a breeding ground for 
 privateers, who based themselves in the St. Servan district. 
 During the 1st century AD, the Welsh monk, St. Maclou, built a
 church on the site of the Roman city of Alet. The walled city has
 a long history of piracy, earning much wealth from local 
 extortion and overseas adventures. 
     In 1944, the Allies heavily bombarded Saint-Malo, which was
 garrisoned by German troops and the city was almost totally 
 destroyed .  However over a period of 12 years, 1948 - 1960 the
 city was rebuilt  Today it is a popular tourist center, with a ferry
 terminal serving the islands of Jersey and Guernsey. Walking
 through the cobbled streets of this historic walled city's old
 town, you feel as though you've stepped back in time and one 
experiences an authentic glimpse into Brittany's important
seafaring past.  One of the highlights is walking the ramparts 
surrounding the city, as you look out over the English Channel
with the sea-farers winds whipping at your hair. 

                             Ramparts of St. Malo:
Image result for St. Malo, France - ramparts


     *L'Orient & Lunch in market:



    *Keroman Submarine Base: (German WWII)
    Keroman Base was a German U-Boat base during WWII,
built in June 1940.  Between February 1941 and January 1942, 
3 gigantic reinforced concrete structures were built on the 
Keroman peninsula, called K1, K2, and K 3.  The base was 
capable of sheltering 30 submarines under cover. 
      After allies failed to damage the U-Boat bunkers the 
bombing shifted to the city itself to deny the Germans workers
and other resources. Before these bombings, thousands of 
leaflets were dropped on the population instructing  the
inhabitants to evacuate.[17] Between 14 January 1943 and 17 
February 1943, as many as 500 high-explosive aerial bombs
and more than 60,000 incendiary bombs were dropped.
       Although Lorient was heavily damaged by allied bombing
raids, the base survived through to the end of the war.  
Keroman was held until May 1945 though surrounded by the 
American Army but the Germans refused to surrender. It is 
now a historical site where we will take a guided tour of
the K3, which is the largest of the submarine blocks


Keroman Submarine BaseImage result for keroman submarine base

Overnight in Dinan


DAY #10, Saturday, Oct. 26th:         
NORMANDY - Beauty stitched among
       sobering reflections.             


    *Mont St. Michel:
         ...is an island at the mouth of the Couesnon River.  As of 2015
             it had a population of 50.  The island has held strategic fortifi-
             cations since ancient times and since the 700s has been the seat
             of the monastery from which it draws its name. The structural
             composition of the town exemplifies the feudal society that
             constructed it: on top, God, the abbey and monastery: below
             the great halls; then stores and houses; and at the bottom,
             outside the walls, houses for fishermen and farmers.
                   The commune's position, on an island just a few hundred
             meters from land, made it accessible at low tide to the many
             pilgrims to its abbey, but defensible as an incoming tide
             stranded, drove off, or drowned would-be assailants.  The
             mount remained unconquered during the Hundred Year's 
             War.  Louis the XI turned the Mount into a prison.  There-
             after the abbey began to be used regularly as a jail before the 
             revolution.
                  One of my favorite sites to visit in France, it appears through
             the water's mist like a miraged castle.  The hike up the narrow
             lanes are challenging, but I managed it during a ferocious bout
             of morning sickness many years ago, determined not to miss
             out!  So glad to see it again with a calmer stomach but a slower
             gait.  Truly an amazing place to visit!

                                 Mont St. Michel               
Image result for mont st. michel france

   Saint-Lo:  Picnic Lunch
              The city has long been an important center of the eco-
             nomy of Nomandy.  It has been coveted by neighboring
             nations, including England, resulting in many successive
             invasions.  It lost its dominant position towards the end of
             the 1800s because it failed to take advantage of the first
             Industrial Revolution, which instead affected much of the
             predominantly peasant population.  Originally called
             Briovere (meaning "Bridge on the Vire River" in Gaulish)
             the town is built on and around ramparts.  The town
             started life as a Gallic fortified settlement, but was con-
             quered by the Romans in 56 BC.

                  The Battle of Saint-Lo is one of the 3 conflicts in the Battle
             of the Hedgerows which took place in July 1944, just before
             Operation Cobra.  Saint-Lo had fallen to Germany in 1940
             and after the invasion of Normandy, the US targeted the city
             as it served as a strategic crossroads.  American bombard-
             ments caused heavy damage (up to 95% of the city was
             destroyed) with a high number of casualties, which resulted
             the martyred city being called "The Capital of Ruins."

                   From this photo you can see the catastrophic damage the
            city sustained in WWII. The city was not rebuilt, but the
            rubble cleared away and new structures built.  None of the
            charming half-beamed building of cities such as Dinan 
            which were not bombed. 


                                   Saint-Lo WWII Destruction
Saint-Lo 1944 - Capitale des Ruines - couleurs.jpg
        
      
  D-day Sites:

      *Pointe de Hoc: 
                  ...is a promontory with a 100 ft. cliff overlooking the English
             channel n the northwestern coast of Normandy.  During WWII
             it was the highest point between Utah Beach to the west and
             Omaha Beach to the east.  The Germany army fortified the area
             concrete casemates and gun pits. On D-Day, the U.S. Army Ranger
             Assault Group captured Pointe de Hoc after scaling the cliffs.
             Here we can visit the German bunkers used during the invasion.

                                                         Pointe de Hoc
Image result for Pointe du Hoc

                   
      *WWII U.S. Cemetery
          On June 8, 1944, the US First Army established the temporary
              cemetery, the 1st American cemetery on European soil in WW II.
              After the war, the present-day cemetery was established a short
              distance to the east of the original site. It is located on a bluff over-
              looking Omaha Beach and the English Channel.  France has 
              granted the US a special, perpetual concession to the land   
              occupied by the cemetery,  free from any charge or tax to 
              honor the forces.  The cemetery is managed by the 
              American Battle Monuments  Commission, a small 
              independent agency of the US federal government. The US
              flag flies over these granted soils.

                    The cemetery site, at the north end of a half mile access road
              covers 172 acres and contains the graves of 9.385 of our military
              dead, most of whom lost their lives in the D-Day landings and
              ensuing operations. Included are graves of Army Air Corps crews
              shot down over France as early as 1942 and 3 American women.  
              A new $30 million visitor center was dedicated in 2007.  In 
              addition to exhibits, the center includes 3 informational visitor
              films.

                                       US WWII Cemetery, Normandy
Image result for WWII US Cemetery, Normandy

   *Omaha Beach:
               (From Wikipedia)  Omaha Beach was the code name for one of the
         five sectors of the Allied invasion of German-occupied France in 
         the Normandy landings on June 6, 1944, during World War II.
         'Omaha' refers to a section of the coast of Normandy, France,
         facing the English Channel 8 kilometers (5 mi) long, from east of
         Sainte-Honorine-des-Pertes to west of Vierville-sur-Mer on the 
         right bank of the Douve River estuary and an estimated 150-foot 
         (45 m) tall cliffs. Landings here were necessary to link the British 
         landings to the east at Gold with the American landing to the west
         at Utah, thus providing a continuous lodgement on the Normandy
         coast of the Bay of the Seine. Taking Omaha was to be the respon-
         sibility of United States Army troops, with sea transport, mine 
         sweeping, and a naval bombardment force provided predomi-
         nantly by the U. S. Navy and Coast Guard, with contributions
         from the BritishCanadian, and Free French navies.
               The primary objective at Omaha was to secure a beachhead of
         eight kilometres (5.0 miles) depth, between Port-en-Bessin and the
         Vire River, linking with the British landings at Gold to the east, and 
         reaching the area of Isigny to the west to link up with VII Corps 
         landing at Utah. Opposing the landings was the German 352nd
         Infantry Division. Of the 12,020 men of the division, 6,800 were 
         experienced combat troops, detailed to defend a 53-kilometer
         (33 mi) front. The German strategy was based on defeating any 
         seaborne assault at the water line, and the defenses were mainly
         deployed in strongpoints along the coast. The untested American
         29th Infantry Division, along with nine companies of U.S. Army 
         Rangers redirected from Pointe du Hoc, assaulted the western half
         of the beach. The battle-hardened 1st Infantry Division was given the 
         eastern half. The initial assault waves, consisting of tanksinfantry
         and combat engineer forces, were carefully planned to reduce the 
         coastal defenses and allow the larger ships of the follow-up waves 
         to land.
              Very little went as planned during the landing at Omaha.  Difficul-
         ties  in navigation caused the majority of landing craft to miss their
         targets throughout the day.  the defenses were unexpectedly strong,
         and inflicted heavy casualties on landing U.S. troops.  Under heavy
         fire, the engineers struggled to clear the beach obstacles, later
         landings bunched up around the few channels that were cleared.
         Weakened by the casualties taken just in landing, the surviving 
         assault troops could not clear the heavily defended exits off the
         beach.  This caused further problems and consequent delays for
         later landings. Small penetrations were eventually achieved by 
         groups of survivors making improvised assaults, scaling the bluffs
         between the most heavily defended points. By the end of the day,
         two small isolated footholds had been won, which were subsequently 
         exploited against weaker defenses further inland, thus achieving the
         original D-Day objectives over the following days.

                              Omaha Beach - then.... and  now
Image result for Omaha Beach, NormandyImage result for Omaha Beach, Normandy


      *Bayeux Tapestry:

           The Bayeux Tapestry (actually an embroidery) is an
                    embroidered cloth nearly 230 ft. long and 20 inches tall. 
                    which depicts the events leading up to the Norman 
                    conquest of England involving William the Duke of 
                    Normandy (the Conqueror) and Harold, Earl of Wessex,
                    later King of England, and culminating in the Battle of 
                    Hastings.  It is  thought to date to the 11th century, within
                    a few years after the battle.  It tells the story from the 
                    point of view of the conquering Normans but is now 
                    agreed to have been made in England.
                        According to Sylvette Lemagnen, conservator of the 
                   tapestry,  "the tapestry is one of the supreme 
                   achievements of the Norman  Romanesque....its 
                   survival almost intact over nine centuries is little short 
                   of miraculous...its exceptional length, the harmony
                   and freshness of its colors, its exquisite workmanship, 
                   and the  genius of its guiding spirit combine to make it 
                   endlessly fascinating."
                       The cloth consists of some 50 scenes with Latin, 
                    embroidered on linen with colored woolen yarns.  It is 
                    likely that is was commissioned by Bishop Odo, 
                    William's half-brother and made in England - not 
                    Bayeux - in the 1070s.  In 1729 it was rediscovered by
                    scholars at a time when it was being displayed annually 
                    in Bayeux Cathedral.  

                                                  Bayeux Tapestry
Image result for bayeux tapestry


       Overnight in Saint-Pierre-la-Garenne
                                  
      Hotel Les Canisses (on the banks of the Seine River
             halfway between Bayeux and Paris)  
                   https://www.canisses.com/en/                                                                              


DAY #11, Saturday, Oct. 27th:


   *Chateau Gaillard:
             The name means "strong castle" and is a ruined medieval castle,
         overlooking the River Seine in Normandy. Construction began in 1196
         under the auspices of Richard the Lionheart, who was simultaneously
         king of England and feudal Duke of Normandy.  The castle was 
         expensive to build but the majority of the work was done in a
         short period of time - just 2 years.  It is composed of a complex and
         advanced design and uses early principles of concentric fortification; 
         the castle consists of 3 enclosures separated by dry moats, with a 
         keep  in the inner enclosure.
              The Chateau was captured in 1204 by the king of France, Phillip II,
         after a lengthy siege.  In the mid-14th century, the castle was the 
         residence of the exiled David II of Scotland. It changed hands 
         several times in the  hundred years war, but in 1449 the French 
         king captured the Chateau from the English king definitively
         and from then on it remained in French ownership.  Henry IV
         of France ordered the demolition of Chateau Gaillard in 1599; 
         although it was in ruins at the time, it was felt to be a
         threat to the security of the local population.
            Image result for chateau gaillard
     

    *Versailles Palace & Gardens:
        The Palace of Versailles, 12 miles southwest of Paris is one
of the greatest achievements in French 17th century architecture.
Louis XIII’s old hunting pavilion was transformed and extended
by his son, Louis XIV, when he installed the court and 
government there in 1682.  A succession of kings continued
to embellish the palace up until the French Revolution.  
Today the Palace contains 2,300 rooms.
      The palace now a UNESCO World Heritage site, is notable
especially for the ceremonial Hall of Mirrors, the jewel-like 
RoyalOpera and the royal apartments.  The small rustic 
Hamlet created for Marie Antoinette as well as the vast 
Gardens of Versailles with fountains, canals and geometric 
flower beds and groves also attract visitors.  The Palace 
was stripped of all its furnishings after the French 
Revolution but many pieces have been returned 
and many of the palace rooms have been restored.
       Rich served a good part of his mission in Versailles,
(though not in the palace) so it is exciting to see an LDS temple 
opened in this area today.  We will drive by it on our way.

                                     Versailles Palace
Image result for versailles


     *Basilica of St. Denis (if time permits):
             The Basilica of Saint-Denis is a large medieval abbey church in the city of Saint-Denis, now a northern suburb of Paris. The building is of singular importance historically and architecturally as its choir, completed in 1144, shows the first use of all of the elements of Gothic architecture.
             The site originated as a Gallo-Roman cemetery in late Roman times.  In 636 on the orders of Dagobert I the relics of Saint Denis, a patron saint of France, were reinterred in the basilica. 
             The basilica became a place of pilgrimage and the burial place of the French Kings with nearly every king from the 10th to the 18th centuries being buried there, as well as many from previous centuries. (It was not used for the coronations of kings, that function being reserved for the Cathedral of Reims; however, French Queens were commonly crowned there.) 
               In the 12th century the Abbot Suger rebuilt portions of the abbey church using innovative structural and decorative features. In doing so, he is said to have created the first truly Gothic building.[3] The basilica's 13th-century nave is the prototype for the Rayonnant Gothic style, and provided an architectural model for many medieval cathedrals and abbeys of northern FranceGermanyEngland and a great many other countries.
Tombs of French Kings and Queens

Afternoon return to Charles De Gaulle airport
where we say "a bien tot" to new close
friends and "au revoir" to France!

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